The review of Mode à Paris Mens continues on with another trio of Parisian based designers. Ann Demeulemeester revolved around romantic duality with ‘Two Suns’. The renowned house of Louis Vuitton broke the mold with a fresh take on youthful luxury and Umit Benan fantasized of Fidel & Che dressed in tailored militant loungewear.
Two Suns a collection revolving around a dualistic romanticism mixing together Ann’s renowned energy with Sebastien Meunier’s modern energy. The silhouettes were cuts of the long and lean archetypal chromosome of the Demeulemeester brand hosting layers of fluid and transparent pieces that maintained a masculinity in a grayscale color palate with pulsating pops of burnt, carroty oranges and seafoam, emerald greens. The perfect assemblage designed for the dark yet sensual man of spring/summer 2016.
Trotting the globe piecing together the many wonders accumulated along the way Kim Jones slayed this collection taking the luxurious DNA of brand and integrating it with a vibration more closely fitted for the new fledglings on the scene. A voyage of detailed notions capsuling the art of indigo dyeing, versatile reversible pieces, animals embroidered on silky satin souvenir jackets, the go-to pieces of the spring/summer 2016 season. Appealing to the opulence of the habitual customer yet taping in to the youthful transgression of the newcomers.
A man with a magnetic vibe and on the top of my favorite menswear designers, Umit Benan, has done it again. Always and forever making a statement of the visual or verbal his collection Comandante spoke volumes with a militaristic, masculine collection constructed based on the vision of Castro and Che sipping on Cuba Libres and puffing celebratory cigars. Umit seemingly flexed together leisurewear with structure, uniforms with a pajama-like fit cinched at the waist, causal shirt jackets decked with classic militant bellow pockets in army inspired greens and navy blue hues. The Umit Benan man of SS16 is a lover and a fighter from the boudoir to the battlefield.